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Tirunelveli Okkarai

Classic, frugal Deepavali sweetmeat from Tirunelveli, which relies on the flavors of cold pressed sesame oil rather than ghee

Ingredients
  

  • 1 cup of Bengal gram dal/ chana dal/ kadalai paruppu
  • 1 cup jaggery
  • 1/4 cup of sesame oil

for flavoring

  • 4-5 cardamom pods
  • a pinch of edible camphor
  • 1/2 teaspoon dry ginger

for crunch

  • a handful of broken cashew pieces, choppped almonds, small pieces of fresh coconut
  • 1 tablespoon powdered palm sugar candy or rock candy, if available
  • raisins, optional

Instructions
 

  • Lightly roast the dal until it's barely browning and fragrant.
  • Then soak the roasted lentils for a minimum of 3-4 hours, or until you can pinch one through and break it without any effort. Drain completely.
  • Transfer to a food processor or blender and pulse until you have a smoothish paste. You may need to scrape the sides down a few times to achieve a consistent texture.
  • Now heat a heavy bottomed pan and add a few tablespoons of sesame oil to it. Before the oil is too hot, transfer the chana dal paste to it, lower the heat, and start mixing: press-scrape-turn, over and over, exposing every inch of the soaked gram to heat little-by-little so that it all cooks evenly.
  • Don't be afraid to scrape the bottom of the pan with full vigor. Use a metal spatula, if it helps.
  • Add a few more spoonfuls of oil, one spoonful at a time, if the mixture sticks too much to the bottom of the pan. I used about 1/4 cup in total, but you might be able to get away with less.
  • Do all this on low heat, taking your time over it.
  • On the side, set the cup of jaggery to heat with a little water. Allow it to come to a bubble. There's no need to work towards a 1 or 2-string consistency; what you need is a thickish syrup.
  • Get the flavorings ready: a pinch of edible camphor, some cardamom pods. You can also add a 1/2 teaspoon of dry ginger, if you like. Crush these together well and add them to the jaggery syrup.
  • When the okkarai is deepens in color and is starting to look a little less raw, much less pasty and a lot more crumbly, add the jaggery syrup, and continue thecchufying, pressing-scraping-turning to incorporate and then to ensure that any residual moisture evaporates.
  • Continue cooking until the okkarai once again is starting to look slightly like a crumbly halva. The sugars in this will be hot and therefore somewhat liquidy; the mixture will become even more crumbly as it cools--so don't overcook it at this stage.
  • Once the okkarai has cooled, it should "udirify" or fall apart in crumbles. It should hold together briefly like a laddoo but then easily crumble apart. That's its signature texture.
  • At this stage, you can add what nuts and flavorings you please: cashews are typical, as are small bits of coconut. I added wild almonds and a little powdered panam-kalkandu or palm sugar jaggery to give my okkarai a light gaund-ki-laddoo-like crunch.
  • Toast the nuts in a small bit of sesame oil (or ghee, if you absolutely must), and mix in.
  • Okkarai should store at room temperature for several days or in the fridge for longer

Notes

If you use fresh coconut, your okkarai will need refrigeration or will spoil faster