Heat the oil in a heavy pan. Roast the spices in batches: first the red chillies, then the dals, and finally the spices (jeera, black pepper, saunf). Remove each, and transfer to a blender jar to cool.

In the same pan with no extra oil, add the pearl onions. Once these are translucent, follow with the garlic, and then the tomatoes. Cook till soft. Transfer to the blender jar with the spices.

Add enough tamarind water to help with the grinding, and blend these to a thick paste. Set aside.

In the same heavy saucepan, add the 3 tablespoons of sesame oil. Once it’s hot, drop the mustard seeds in, allow them to splutter, and follow with the curry leaves.

Add the onions once more, and the whole garlic, frying this time until nicely browned.

Now add the kodukapuli, stir for a bit, and add the rest of the tamarind water. Thin this with drinking water, if necessary, enough to cover the kodukapuli. Add the turmeric powder, and leave this to simmer until the raw tamarind smell dissipates—a few minutes.

Add the jaggery, and salt to taste.

Finish with the dollop of ghee, and serve hot with rice.