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Panampazham Malpuas

In Bengal and Odisha these are Taler Malpuas, and a seasonal variation on the classic soaked cakes. For us in Tamil Nadu, however, they’re an innovation or an idea of how to celebrate the birth of Krishna with ingenuities borrowed from the Eastern states. My recipe uses three flours, in acknowledgement of the evolution of this dish from Rg Vedic times to the present though it’s much more common now to see these made from just maida or white flour.

Ingredients
  

For the malpuas

  • 1 cup jau or barley flour
  • 1 cup rice flour
  • 1 cup white or whole wheat flour
  • A pinch of salt
  • ½ cup sugar
  • 2 cups of milk, plus more if needed to thin the batter
  • 1 full cup panampazham or ripe toddy palm pulp (can substitute with ripe banana, well mashed)
  • Scant ½ teaspoon baking soda
  • ½ cup of ghee to shallow fry the malpuas

For the syrup

  • 1 cup sugar
  • ¾ cup water
  • 2-3 pods of cardamom, powdered
  • A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

To garnish

  • Chopped pistachios almonds and broken cashew pieces
  • fresh cream to serve (optional)

Instructions
 

  • In a large mixing bowl, combine the flours, salt and sugar. Mix well.
  • Add the milk in a steady stream, mixing or whisking vigorously to break up all lumps in the batter.
  • Mix in the panampazham pulp, and add a little more milk at this stage if needed to make a thin dosa-like poring batter.
  • Set this aside, covered, for 3-4 hours. Do not add the baking soda yet!
  • While the batter is resting, and just a little ahead of when you want to fry the malpuas, prepare the sugar syrup. Combine sugar and water in a small saucepan on medium heat. Mix or swirl to dissolve the sugar and then leave this to simmer, undisturbed, for about 5-7 minutes.
  • Switch off the heat (but leave the saucepan on the stove where it’s warm still), and add in the cardamom and nutmeg flavorings.
  • You can if you wish place the saucepan in a wider pan filled with hot water to keep the syrup warm as you fry the malpuas.
  • Now add the baking soda to the batter and mix vigorously.
  • Heat a small frying pan and add a little ghee to it. When the pan is hot, pour 1-2 tablespoons of batter (or 1 small dosa ladle full of batter) at a time and allow it to spread naturally. If the batter appears still too thick, add a little more milk to thin it.
  • Wait for a bare minute and flip the malpua to cook it on the other side. A spatula works best.
  • Wait another bare minute and lift off the cooked cake and place it in a serving dish. Drizzle enough of the sugar syrup over top to soak it.
  • You can, if you wish, dunk the cooked malpuas into sugar syrup and then transfer to a serving this—this method is certainly more traditional. But the flour mix used in this recipe makes them a touch more fragile, so I found it easier to transfer to a serving dish right away and then not have to move them after. Do make sure you’re using enough sugar syrup to soak them all the way through, keeping in mind that you’ll repeat the process for the remaining malpuas so the lower ones will get drenched more than once.
  • Repeat the process for the remaining batter, adding more ghee generously each time before pouring batter on. I got into a rhythm of transferring cooked malpuas to a plate, then starting the cooking of the next malpua before coming back to drizzle the previous one with sugar syrup, then returning to flip the cooking malpua, and so on until the batter was all used up.
  • It’s nice to arrange these in small stacks or in a nautilus shell spiral or as you aesthetically please.
  • Finish with the chopped nuts, and maybe some crushed rose petals if you have them.
  • Offer them to Lord Krishna and serve them up warm, with some fresh cream poured over top, if you wish.